
There are no muffin tops in Vienna (except mine... grrr). But these sleeping bags with the feet cut out of them are everywhere....
I don't understand... it's -2 degrees, and people think it's a good idea to stand OUTSIDE while a man shucks them oysters to have with champagne (okay, the oysters and bubbles I understand, but outside in the snowy wet?)




I wish I'd thought of this earlier, so I could have truly entered 'a word for today' each day... but here's how my German has improved in Vienna, and some of the long (and therefore impressive) words I have learned here.
Wednesday: Zeit (time). As in 'time until we reach Vienna' on the plane...
Thursday: Kurbis (pumpkin). Alex spent ages trying to describe this enormous green vegetable... he didn't say it was orange on the inside!
Friday: Strassenbahn Haltestelle (tram stop - literally 'street rail stopping place'). If there is a long and complicated way of saying something, the German language will generally find it.
Saturday: Schlagobersgupf (a topping of whipped cream). You see it on a lot of cafe menus, in the 'heisse schokolade' section.
Sunday: Heurigen, Weinstube (pub that sells wine). I didn't really learn this word today, but all the other days had words already by the time the heurigens open at 4pm...






Alex had to work Thursday so I took myself off into town, to see if my wits and VERY basic German can still get by in a strange country. Managed to not get lost, and found the place I was looking for – tucked behind opulent Staatsoper (Opera house), lies the decadent Hotel Sacher, where ‘Sacher torte’ was invented...
Disaster! The cafe was closed for a private function!! Not having a spare 35 euros ($A60) for an entree sized pumpkin and truffle risotto (the cheapest thing on the Sacher Restaurant menu), I wandered about til I found a pub, an Irish pub, no less, where zuccini and paprika soup, and a pint, set me back the princely sum of 6.80 euros (about $A10.50). I'm loving this exchange rate (an Aussie dollar now buys about 62 euro cents, well up on the 50c or so when I was here three years ago. Yay.)
As for Sacher, I found a postcard with a recipe for making it, in the Staatsoper shop, but it's no substitute. I'm going back there Saturday...
Met Alex after work at the Nachtsmarket, where all the Viennese chefs buy their ingredients from. They were the best looking vegies and most diverse range of foods I’ve ever seen anywhere in europe – even in major cities you struggle to find even basic ‘ethnic’ foods like soy sauce, curry paste, or couscous. Don’t even bother searching in supermarkets. Yes, really. Mind you, when places do a schnitzel and mash the way Viennese do (its not called 'Wiener' schnitzel for nothing!) who wants couscous?
Had dinner last night at an awesomely massive underground beer-and-wine hall in the cellars of a house built in 1339. Wine comes in 250mL tankards, beer in steins, and most dishes are around $A10 - my goulash (lots of hungarian influences here, 'cos the Austrian Hapsburg empire included all of Hungary for centuries) was so fabulously stewed it almost fell off the fork. Live music (broadway hits played on squeezebox and guitar – very rustic!) was free. These vast, cavernous places are dotted all over Vienna and this one, called the 12 Apostles, is GORGEOUS, complete with 'toilet madam', one of those lonely looking older women who sit at a table all day collecting 20c from everyone each time they take a leak, and keeping the facilities clean and tidy. Sadly, my camera battery was dead, so no pix... grrr... until I went back on Saturday to snap this rather unglam self portrait. But you can see how gorgeous the cellar is. We got rather merry over a couple of wines before staggering home, so I could call the lovely Anthony. He was sleepy, and lovely, and I miss him lots and wish he was here to share this adventure with me...
Knowing me, I'll get it mastered just in time to reach the UK, only to find that it's different again! Must change that bit on my CV about touch typing at 60wpm... hmmm
To this...
It totally dominates the skyline of the tiny town, population 900, about 60 kms west from Vienna (Wien to the locals). And no wonder - with 500 rooms, more than 1400 windows, and boasting a church dome peaking at 64 metres tall (you can see the church fully enclosed by the later buildings, towards the left in this shot above) ... today, it is still home to a small community of Benedictines, as well as a private school for 900 students. The abbey controls more than 5000 hectares of farming, forestry and winegrape growing lands, and hosts half a million visitors a year. So that's how they've funded the amazing restoration of this incredible Baroque-era work of art...
The Marble Hall, below, was once used only by the visiting Hapsburg Royalty, complete wtih frescoed ceiling, featuring an optical illusion built in to make the ceiling appear higher than it is (yes, really!). The entire south wing (left hand side of the pic above, and more than 150 metres long) was set aside for their use. The Empress Marie Therese never visited with less than 300 attendants in her retinue...
This is the largest of 12 rooms in the library, which houses more than 100,000 books in total, 1500 of them predating the invention of the printing press. With permission from the abbott, any bona fide student can seek permission to search the collection (I wonder if he would notice I don't really speak German). The oldest known book in Austria, more than 1000 years old, lives here... I'm in heaven...
The church was, for centuries, open only to the Monks. The entire ceiling is covered in frescoes, and the dozen or so side altars are all as slathered in gold leaf as the main pulpit, below. A recent restoration in here required 4kgs of the stuff!!! Nowadays, services are open to the public every Sunday, complete with 3,500 pipe organ. Apparently, this gorgeousness was supposed to bring you closer to God by creating a little heaven on earth... I don't know if it worked, but it sure is stunning...

I survived that last minute dose of “what am I DOING” as I finally realised how awful it is to not see the fabulous Anthony for at least 8 weeks. I survived the worst airline salad ever (a bowl of tinned corn, with spanish onion, 1.5 cherry tomatoes (halved), some feta and vinagrette) and Mr “I love Frankston” (it was written on his tshirt) with the gorgeous mullet and rats tail hair, in the seat next to me. Mark Batty, I thought of you...
And suddenly I’m in Vienna.
Half a world away doesn't feel nearly so far away this time. Maybe it's because I have now done this long-haul thing five times (*shudders at greenhouse implications*), or because Viennese German is much easier to understand than 'German' German. Or maybe because email makes it so easy to stay in touch with people at home.