More roman conundra

It's now six months since touchdown on the continent and the longer I am here, the more I find myself saying that living in Rome is a whole lot of things (many of which don't smell very nice), but living in Italy is just breathtaking....

That said, Rome has a lot to offer the patient adventurer, (as long as that adventurer is also very careful about where they put their feet). The food markets at Testaccio, with blueberry honey, and the "tomato man", who won't sell you a thing until you tell him exactly which dish you are planning to make with his tomaties... then he selects just the right variety from the dozen or so on his stand. There's a horse-meat stall, and loads that sell fresh fruit and veg - all seasonal of course - cured meats, varying strengths of cheeses, massive cuts of meat that they slice to your requirements, and sweet biscuits and pastries that are just lovely after a big lunch...

Nothing in Rome is entirely wholesome though, and word about the office is 'don't buy the fish there, it's all sold by the mafia', and there are a couple of really annoying little guys who come up and pester you to buy bags of whole garlic bulbs. They don't like taking no for an answer, although once you tell them to fuck off a couple of times, they seem to get the message... sometimes they get halfway to approaching you when recognition hits and they back away again... lol

Back on the upside, there's the aroma of cornetti coming up from the deli as I descend into the subway at the train station - always welcoming after the stench of the street and lending an air of 'warm and cosy' to even the nippiest winter mornings.

And now that tourist season is over and the streets aren't so clogged with badly dressed 'stranieri', I've been getting out and about in search of pretty scenic things. Rome may be badly maintained and crumbling at both her heart and her edges, but there are jewels to be found tucked away here...

I've just confirmation my contract will be renewed, and I am so very pleased to know that I will have more time to seek them out.

I really can't say I yet share the view of my Belgian colleague, who declares she hates Rome". "I've left 3 times" she says... "but look"(with a shrug), "still you see me standing here".

I think that point will be quite some way off yet.