I've waited weeks to see Bracciano and finally, in the last days before Christmas, I made it onto a sleepy Sunday train for the hour long journey north of Rome. I found a christmas market, churches complete with huge precepi, a hilltop castle with views of a breathtaking lake... and Jazz playing Santas, a christmas train running through the main streets, and my first glass of quite ordinary Italian wine. Oh, and two of my colleagues, who commute in every day from here... now there's a thought!
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