Anagni is a tiny hilltop village south of Rome, and the home town of Grazia, girlfriend of Anthony's training buddy, Emiliano (I think its rather cool, btw, that after being really not at all sure about this Italian caper, Ants is the first of the two of us to make Italian friends.
They offered to show us around one weekend, and I am once again in awe of the depth of history that permeates this incredible country. Apparently, people having been living on top of this particular hill for about 700,000 years. The towns modern day walls are Roman in construction, and Roman greats from Marcus Aurelius to Commodus used to retreat here from Rome's oppressive summers. But it's the ancient cathedral, begun in the 9th century, and the town's status as birthplace of four medieval popes (Innocent III who approved the first Rule of St Francis, Gregory IX who famously excommunicated Frederick Barbarossa, Alexander IV who canonised Clare of Assisi, and Boniface VIII).
The home of Boniface still stands, intact and in use, across the piazza from the cathedral, in an area that used to be part of the cloister. In 1301 his holiness took refuge there from the french (he'd picked a fight with Phillip The Fair of France, who had started a war - not bright), and when the French had him holed up at home, the townsfolk when mad and secured his release. Gutsy folk then!
Shortly after, however, the papal court moved to Avignon and Anagni became a ruin, depopulated and sacked several times over in the ensuring centuries.
And there are dozens of these places, whose modest size today belies their enormous power in centuries gone by.
Emiliano and Grazia also showed us the newly restored market place and town hall - a reminder if any were needed that Mammon has always worked beside god in the home of the Vatican.
The greatest treat of all, however, was dinner, at a nearby town that starts with L but which I cannot find on any map. Also a hilltop town, heavily fortified with ancient walls, the restaurant we adjourned to is inside a 14th Century stable building. From a tiny kitchen, they serve up a five course set menu of traditional fare that is nothing short of a feast: salume and cheeses, tomato and fagioli soup, pasta, roast meats and amazing desserts. The owners are friends of the re-enactment 'family' in these parts, the chef, just 30, just months into the job, giving up a career in Rome and taking over the reins after the sudden death of his father. The family are obviously still close, and still working through their tears. We felt humbled and privileged to be part of their world for even a few hours.
I can't wait to see more of the Italian countryside. But first, I have to ask Emiliano the name of this amazing place, and we need to go back there in daylight.
, and completed in and amazing dinner, recently widowed, sense of being local and yet special... gorgeous hosts and we must have them over soon...
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