Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Edible Anzac Day
Don't laugh - it worked! As folk chewed through plates of Anzac Biscuits, TJ explained that the food had to be hard-wearing to last all the way to the trenches, and then survive a warzone. And the kiwifruit on my pav was, clearly, a reminder that Galipoli was a proving ground for New Zealanders as well as Aussies - two young, newly independent nations making their debut on the world stage.
Nah, actually, it was just an excuse for a yummy morning tea. But given that a lot of Brits and Europeans don't even realise Australians were even IN the war, let alone dying in their thousands, I think we made our point, quite deliciously.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Woodstock to Wooton - on foot
My fabulous geek-pal Dan turned out to be a fountain of random knowledge, spotting aglow-worm beside the trail (and showing us how to determine its sex! It was female...), then dating a farmhouse to the late 15th century by the shape of its windows.
Time to throw sticks at Aunt Sally
Monday, April 09, 2007
Easter: A tale of two cities - Kenilworth
The next day, I hopped on a bus 6 miles to Kenilworth, to check out the competition. Kenilworth castle was a royal residence - King John was one of many who made major renovations here, as did John of Gaunt and Henry VIII - and later the home of the Earls of Leicester. It was most famous as the home of Robert Dudley, the reputed lover of Elizabeth I, who hosted the queen here no less than three times.
This weekend though, it was all about earlier times, courtesy of a series of cracking shows by the Plantagenet Medieval Archery and Combat society. I arrived just in time to watch the ladies in all their finery shooting at 'pheasants' - each one re-enacting an historical character from the period, from 'Black' Agnes Randolf, daughter of Randolph, Earl of Moray, who held her castle at Dunbar for 5 months against the beseiging English in 1334, to Elizabeth de Clare, who I later learned endowed Clare College at Cambridge. 
It was the lads, however, who stole the show with their awesome "Crecy" display. The Battle of Crecy is one of England's most famous victories against the French. Under Henry V (to whom Shakespeare gave the famous 'on St Crispin's day' speech), an estimated 900 men at arms and 5000 archers held, then routed and crushed, a French army of up to 36,000.How did they do it? The boys at Kenilworth showed us. A longbowman had to be able to loose at least 10 arrows in a minute to be considered worth his salt. That requires practice but is possible. Six lads took up places, sending between 10 and 17 (!) arrows each into the target. In 60 seconds, it looked like this...
Now, they said, imagine that there are not 6 archers, but 5000. So not 80 arrows a minute, but at least 50,000. One begins to understand how arrows can fall 'like rain' and 'blot out the sun'. The French, unlike the legendary 300 of Sparta, could not fight in the shade - they couldn't even reach the English, over the boggy ground (miring their heavily armoured horses and footsoldiers) and they were cut to pieces. The English didn't have it all their own way at Kenilworth though... the afternoon finished with a splendid foot tourney, complete with noble lords, an evil knight (the evil ones are always called 'Sir Guy'... why is that), lewd humour and loads and loads of biffo. The crowd loved it. I laughed so hard I nearly cried.

I spent too much money on mead and sweeties and books in the English Heritage shop before heading back to Warwick to gloat.
For the record, this takes my UK tally to 18 castles, 7 Cathedrals and 4 abbeys, four 'henges' and Britain's oldest chalk horse. Not bad for 12 months work.
Easter: A tale of two castles - Warwick


Warwick also keeps its own birds of prey - and didn't we all duck when the vulture swooped over our heads! Although it was the regal eagle that really stole the show.


Thursday, April 05, 2007
No joke: I had my shoes shined by a priest this morning...
Karma intervened (see, all gods ARE the one god) and I missed the bus.
So with 15 minutes to kill till the next one, I wandered back into the river of thronging pedestrians. There, outside the church of St Michael at the North Gate (the oldest one in Oxford, apparently) were the parish priesthood in their full frock coats, merrily shining shoes. They explained, as I took a seat and proffered my trusty, dusty Combat boots (it was dress-down day at work) that they'd figured that shining shoes would be far more acceptable to Oxonians - and more sanitary - than washing feet.
I'm not sure what was more impressive, the mirror sheen on my boots, or the fact that at least 3 people at work, when I said "a priest shined my shoes this morning", replied: "Oh like Maundy Thursday, where Christ washed the feet of the disciples before the last supper. Cool."
No, really.
Monday, April 02, 2007
Folksongs of the Upper Thames...
I first heard about it this weekend when local folk heroes John Spiers and Jon Boden (voted best duo in Britain by the BBC last year) took the stage at the Oxford Folk Festival with a joke about it being called “Folk Songs of the Swindon district” until PR got hold of it.
(Melbournites, that’d be like taking songs from Croydon or Ringwood and renaming them ‘Folk songs of the Upper Yarra’).
But I digress – the BBC has a great rap for it here. I confess I didn’t make it to the Ukelele Orchestra of Great Britain, but I wouldn’t have missed Metcalfe, Giles and Woods (aka Graham, Ian and Ian from the pub) for quids, nor Renbourne and Williams (below). The Saturday and Sunday night sessions at the ‘Moon were awesome – sadly, so were the hangovers the next morning…

*progeny of two English folk heroes, Martin Carthy and Norma Waterson, and something of a hero to lots of folky women everywhere. NOBODY should be able to sing so beautifully AND play the fiddle like a demon – and never at the same time!!
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
Dick the Morris Dancer and his Mangleworzel
"Don't suppose you happen to be carrying a chess set on you, by any chance?" he asked next. Sadly, I'm not in that habit, but then he explained that he'd come in for a game with a friend who had stood him up. Undeterred, we went on to chat about his retirement project, which involves him travelling throughout England documenting folk traditions which he hopes to publish in a book before he dies. He's up to about 250 and thinks he'll stop somewhere between 275 and 300. That's a lot of folk stuff to carry around in one head. I was impressed.
I was even more impressed by his word for the day - Mangleworzel. A mangelworzel is, apparently, rather like a gourd, but orange in colour, a bit like a pumpkin. Once upon a time, somewhere in England (Devon, I think he said) the women of a certain village decided they were fed up with the blokes going off to secret meetings to drink plonk, particularly because the menfolk tended to take all the lanterns with them. Resolved to give their husbands a collective piece of their minds, they grabbed all the mangleworzels they could find, hollowed them out and put candles in them and set out up the hill. The men, seeing eerie orange lights approaching them in the night, promptly decided the devil was after them, and fled.
Having shared several such tales, Dick decided that it was too late for chess, and headed home. He jammed his Morris hat on his head - a battered straw number adorned with a riot of fake flowers that looked totally at odds with his grizzled hair and straggly beard - poked some music, his tobacco and a roll of loo paper back into his bag, and set off into the night.
He was loads more entertaining than the pair of drunks I was left with in the bar...
Monday, March 26, 2007
My husband the Master of Trebuchet...
Yes dear readers, the lovely Anthony will be spending the next 7 months working full time as assistant Master of Trebuchet at one of England's most famous medieval castles, firing a 22 tonne wooden monster that slings a 20kg concrete ball a mighty 250 metres. At night time events they'll even send down the occasional fireball...
I so can't wait to see my bloke in woollen tights and a codpiece! Huzzah and Wassail! ;-)
Saturday, March 24, 2007
Ants' first ceilidh
Along with the highly regionalised music - there really IS a book called 'Folk Songs of the Upper Thames' that covers Oxford! there are some other very important lessons:
1. Wear comfortable shoes
2. Wear layers - those scout halls get warm with 80 sweating bodies inside - and you DO sweat
3. Take a bloke to dance with, otherwise you and your galpals end up taking turns being the boy.
4. If you grab each other round the waist and get your feet in the right position, you can spin around REALLY fast....
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
From sunbathing to snow...
This week, mother England flexed her weather with a vengeance. So far it's snowed every damn day since Sunday, when a sunny afternoon bike ride turned to sleet and shite in the time it takes to do a week's grocery shopping. Yes, Ants and I had to ride home in it. Brrrr!
Have to admit though, this morning it was kinda pretty - Ants woke up for work to find the outside world coated in fluffy whiteness, from the tips of the fresh green grass to the tallest rooftop. It lasted til mid morning, when the sun came out.
Melbourne's four seasons in one day has found some stiff competition...
Sunday, March 18, 2007
Paddy's day with a difference
(For an irish pub, the 'Six Bells' does amazingly good Thai food - we'll have that again! But I digress. )
So we all-but-cried when Ireland got hussled out of top spot in the Tournament by a determined (and, for mine, decidedly dirty) French team who scored seconds before the final whistle - just not right on Ireland's national day. We had to pull ourselves together in the evening though, to meet the lads down the road at the Woodstock Arms for England Wales. Zenta, Ants and I, plus one other bloke, were - unsurprisingly- the only ones backing Wales... but damn me if the buggers didn't pull one out to win!
Anthony was a huge hit with the rugby lads - one look at his size was enough, but once they worked out he was a kiwi to boot, they were all over him to play. Brian, the team veteran, and a not overly tall chap who likes a pint or five, spent about an hour muttering 'just look at those hands - they could hold a ball alright' to anyone who would listen.
He was almost as funny as the bloke who sat next to me, looked at my chest and said 'I'm sorry, but they're fantastic. Are they paid for?' I'll rant some other time about the tendency for the English - male and female - to treat a woman's breasts as public property... Sigh. Hmmm. Dilemma: do I slap him and get chucked out of my first english pub, or explain it in the only language a chauvinist idiot will understand?
"They're all my own work, actually, although my husband did choose the very clever bra that's helping them out."
"So where's your husband tonight then?"
Hook, line, sinker. I nodded in Anthony's direction, Pissed Lad took one look, muttered 14 kinds of Sorry and spilled his pint in his haste to get away from me. In 2 minutes flat every girl in the room was laughing at him. I think he bought Ants and me a round - although I'd lost count by that stage.
Oh, best bit, the team captain turns out to be an Invercargill lad, a year or two ahead of Ants in school. He was dead impressed that Ants had played u-19s for Southland. My husband may yet don an Allblacks jersey... watch this space!
Sunday, March 04, 2007
A sword in the hand...
The directions I had were very clear, and the ring of metal on metal gave their position away quite quickly. And the people were lovely and welcoming and quickly agreed that I could fight at the same standard as they could, and I was most welcome to join in. Being an Oxford Uni club, Wychwood sports extensive training kit (gloves and shields, even spare swords!) which I was able to borrow. And remembering to fight without headshots was made easier by the fact that most people (including me) weren't wearing helmets.
So we ran around in solid, soaking rain for two whole hours (actually, most of them had been there for a lot longer), turning a large part of the playing field to mud, before retiring, sodden and starting to rust, to the pub, to scoff crisps by the bag and swap stories about Great Shows We Have Done... with Hastings high on the list for all concerned!
I can’t wait to go again. But I do hope it isn’t pissing with rain next time…
The resting place of kings and consorts

There's something quite spectacular about the notion that in this most modern of cities, which has rebuilt itself from the ground up at least 3 times, here by the banks of the Thames has stood a place of spiritual significance for more than a thousand years.
Giggles and televised misconceptions aside, Westminster is truly magnificent. There's been a church dedicated to St Peter here since at least 600AD. The building in its current form (a large part of the floor is still paved with tiles laid in 1268!)was begun by Edward the Confessor, later St Edward, and the bloke who ultimately was the cause of the Norman invasion of 1066, after most inconveniently dying without legitimate issue and allegedly promising the crown to William of Normandy, who took it by force from Harold Godwinson, aka King-Harold-who-was-shot-in-the-eye).
The coronation seat, used since - although happily it's now minus the Stone of Scone on which Scotland's kings were crowned, which was nicked by Edward I (better known as Longshanks, and several less lovely names if you're Scottish) and only returned to Scotland in 1996.
I had to wonder how it must feel, in these modern times, to be a royal here on official business and know that you are descended from the bones interred around you. The ancient practice of knights and future sovereigns spending a night in the church in contemplation suddenly took on a whole new meaning. Do they wonder whether they are worthy, or fear being just the teensiest bit of an anticlimax after all this greatness that has gone before them?


I left late in the afternoon with my head spinning from tales of the abbey museum, having stood on the 14th Century floor of the Chapter House, where Parliament once sat, and touched England's oldest door (certified at more than 1000 years old!). But perhaps the highlight of my afternoon was the fact that I'd talked my way into that part of the building after closing time...
the 1000 year old door.
Saturday, March 03, 2007
John Howard finally has a bright idea
I have to say I was impressed during my trip home. While by no means as top of mind as in the UK, the hot air on climate change is much more high profile than it was a year ago. (So it should be - it's only the single biggest challenge facing life on earth... but I digress). It's not really hard to see why. The ongoing drought, predictions of permanent water shortages as climate change reduces over all rainfall, while causing bigger and more frequent tropical downpours and flash flooding are all, it seems, having an impact.
But don't expect anything radical, I predicted, as long as the current government is in power.
So I was surprised - and no end pleased! - to find my home turf has announced a world first. Australia will become the first country to ban the humble tungsten filament light globe - the one that has barely changed since its invention in the 19th century.
The Age newspaper has all the goss.
Friday, March 02, 2007
Beer goggles explained
The BBC has all the goss: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/4468884.stm
Thursday, March 01, 2007
A proper Oxonian
First, I bought a bicycle. Everyone who is anyone in Oxford has a bicycle, and the city is quite well set up for them. Cycle paths are everywhere, and funky little loops embedded in footpaths and walls that people can chain up to, not to mention literally a thousand spaces outside the train station (it was one of the first things I noticed when I came for my interview here - ooh ah, bike friendly town!).
One of the weirdest things ever is to watch cyclists and buses jostling for position on the high street in morning peak hour (cars are, very sensibly, banned!), but that's another story.
My bike is purple (can you tell from this blog that I maybe like purple??) and it was 70 quid in a 'scratched and dented' sale in a local bike shop. And now I don't have to live my life according to the once-an-hour-on-Sundays bus timetables that run in Marston. And I feel like a proper Oxonian now.
Getting a bike meant acquiring new keys. I've lived for months now with just one key for my house, rattling loose in my wallet. (Compared to in Melbourne, where within 24 hrs of arriving, I found myself clutching two sets of car keys, two sets of housekeys and a key to our storage unit. I was only going back for a month!). Now, suddenly, I have a bike lock key, a key to the padlock on the shed where my bike sleeps at night, and a Tesco keyfob for accruing loyalty points. I lashed out and put them all on a keyring. Just like normal people who are based in one place and not travelling the world...
Last but not least, I knew I'd given my heart to this town when I got all bristly when I read Bill Bryson's rant about Oxford being ugly. How dare he? He can't slag off my new home like this... I forced myself to read to the end, and realised that he was actually having a go at that peculiar collection of buildings around the council chambers, which are indeed an eyesore, and which are also, tragically, on the main busroute for coaches to/from London so in full view of many tourists... but really, to write off the whole town like that is up there with saying all of Melbourne is unsightly just because of one Yellow Peril....
The Countess of Warwick and the Trebuchet master...
I was intrigued. Wondering what calamity had caused her to lose her title after just three years (the mundane options, like death in childbed, never occurring to me), and certain that I'd found another great medieval woman to study, I raced first to Wikipedia... only to discover a far less glamourous truth than I'd imagined. The poor lamb never even got to face the rigors of childbirth - you see, poor old Countess Anne was just two when she inherited her title, and died of an unspecified childhood illness just three years later. Aged 5.
She was succeeded by an aunt's husband, who became the 16th Earl of Warwick (again, I'm getting pedantic over this counting thing) and the most famous Warwick of all - Richard Neville, known as the Kingmaker for his skill in putting first York, then Lancaster, on the throne during the Wars of the Roses.
Now, if you had read our adventures in November, you may remember that Warwick castle is also home to the world's largest trebuchet (that's a medieval seige engine, for the uninitiated).
And in my adventures today, I learned that Warwick Castle is looking for a Trebuchet Master to work full time over the summer, doing displays and stuff. What a cool job! Can you imagine it on your own CV? Or going home to Aus - 'what did you do in England?'... Oh, I worked as a Trebuchet Master in a castle"...
My hopes were dashed, however, when I read the job description. Now equal opportunity rules in this country are as good as anywhere, so they can't say 'we only want blokes for this job'. However, they convey the same effect nicely with this statement:
"For authenticity reasons the successful post holder will need to be able to convey the physical appearance of a male.
We believe in equality of opportunity and employ people solely on the basis of their abilities."
My workmates Pete and Will were quick to point out that some of Molvania's best women weightlifters would probably have no problems meeting the criteria... But I was crushed.
Spring is sprung...
When I arrived in the UK a year ago today, the landscape was, to say the least, bleak. And leaves didn't truly appear on trees until at least April.
This year, I came back from Aus to find that, although it had snowed the week before, several hardy trees were already putting forth fragile blossoms. Over the fortnight since, not only have the days grown an hour longer (at least!), but daffys and other bulbs have started pushing up their green shoots, so that roadside verges everywhere are now a riot of green and gold, and fruit trees are in bloom everywhere you look.
The poet in me feels as though spring's arrival was more dramatic after what had clearly been a long cold winter in these parts. The part of me that lives here just loves that there was real warmth in the sun this morning and it shone nearly all day. Bring on the turning seasons. Really.
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Eynsham in flood
Now I learn that even England’s wide green fields have a secondary purpose – they’re all very deliberate floodplains, designed to keep excess water out of the cities during the rainy season. Many of these ‘water meadows’ date to the 15th century, when lowlands would be deliberately flooded in early spring to ensure abundant vegetation once the waters receded.
This winter, those ancient meadows have been flooded for weeks at a time. As the land is so flat, entire areas are only covered to a depth of about 6 inches, but it looks damned impressive when the pretty little river Cherwell, shallow enough for punting and only about 5 metres across, suddenly swells to twice its depth and hundreds of metres across…
If only they could plan their cityscapes with the same skill, functionality and eye for beauty … sigh!
(PS I nicked this photo from Wikipedia - as it's in open cyberspace, I presume that's okay - if it's yours and that's not okay, please let me know!)
